Monday, March 31, 2008

31. To Black Point

On Feb. 14, Valentine’s Day, we left Cambridge Cay and sailed to Staniel Cay. We actually anchored off Bog Major Spot which is famous for the wild pigs that roam the beach.

It was not a beach where I would want to go ashore but we watched several dinghies go ashore. One even set up a tent and sat in the shade while a little child played in the sand, the sand on which the pigs roamed-ugh! The wild???? pigs kept their distance.

We had good holding but we decided to take our boat over to the Thunderbolt Grotto where they filmed the James Bond film. Finistere had gone there originally to anchor and we thought we would join them. But it was not meant to be. The water dropped off very quickly from 19 feet to about 2 feet. Three times we tried to set the anchor and we just could not get a good hold in the space that was remaining in the anchorage. We gave up and returned to Big Major where it was a very easy anchor.

To get to the Thunderball anchorage we had to go by Staniel Cay Yacht Club. I was surprised to see just how small it was and how unprotected their docks were. Although they have fuel, you pay for water by the gallon. That is the norm for the Bahamas.

The next morning, Roman was fed up with his attempt to anchor near the grotto and the water was choppy and we did not fancy a 1 ¼ mile dinghy ride to the grotto so we decided to see it on the way back. Another reason to return to the Bahamas! So we continued onto Black Point.

Black Point is a great community! We thought we would just stop there for a day and ended spending almost a week. The people were very friendly and always greeted you with a smile or a wave from the golf carts which they used to get around the island. We saw very few cars, mainly the Betelco van. Betelco is the national Bahamian telephone service.

All the children on the various islands we have seen wear uniforms to school. Even in very small communities where there is only one school, the children all go to school in crisp clean uniforms. Even their socks and shoes are the same.
They are very friendly and love to get their pictures taken. Superior Grace had brought fireworks with them on their bought. They set off a fireworks display in the field behind the school. Most of the children had never seen fireworks before. Unfortunately I had some aloe vera on the lens of my camera which I did not realize until I looked at my pictures from that night and saw there was a smudge over all of them.

How did I get aloe on my camera? That afternoon, we visited a local character named Willy and his “Garden of Eden”. He is a driftwood artist.




For the last twenty years, he has collected pieces of driftwood and even some rocks and placed them all around the front of his large property. He took us on a tour and we scrutinized each piece and said what we thought it looked like and then Willy would point out how he saw the pieces. Some we agreed on their identity and others we all saw different things. In between all of his “sculptures” are planted a profusion of flowers, cacti and aloe with a beautiful hibiscus tree.

Here Willy and Roman are examining a bunch of bananas that are almost ripe.

That is what I miss about boating - no plants on board. In the back of the property, was a wide assortment of plants all planted in holes dug out to catch any rain when it falls. The coconuts, almonds, tamarinds and bananas were still green but we did try a papaya which was ripe. He grows tomatoes, peppers, peas and many other vegetables and fruits which I have forgot to mention. He says that he waters the plants only when they are very young but once they are established, the holes sustain them.

This is a view of the Exuma Banks side of the island.

Ida runs the cleanest Laundromat I have ever seen. It is expensive, $3.50 to wash or dry but well worth it. Some words of advice to anyone wanting to cruise on a boat. Bring thin, absorbent and fast drying towels, dishcloths and blankets. Do not bring thirsty thick towels, cotton blankets or cotton knits. Lightweight fast drying clothes and poly-cotton sheets are great to wash and dry. Denims are great for cooler weather but take forever to dry especially in the salty air. We brought some light weight denim that is working out but all the other denim is packed away. Don’t bring too many clothes. You end up wearing the clothes you find comfortable over and over again. You are travelling so it is a new look with the old clothes for every new place. Make sure you have line to use for drying clothes. Although the plastic pegs do not rust, the old fashioned wooden clothespins hold the best. Bring extras and keep them in a ziplock bag until you need them.

One of the most welcoming places on the island was Lorraine’s café which is owned by a very hardworking and enterprising women named, you guessed it, Lorraine.
Not only did she have free internet., but she also cooked great lunches and awesome dinners. We had conch fritters and snapper one night and it was very tasty and inexpensive…salad, dinner, dessert, coffee with a glass of wine and a bottle of water came to $38 for both of us. Happy hour across the street at the bar was fun. Free internet there as well. It was wonderful to be able to Skype our children, family and friends. Before we go cruising again, I would like to get a web cam so that I will be able to see and not just hear my grandchildren.

Here a man is building a boat for the annual sailing regatta in August on Black Point.

We met many fellow cruisers, some we knew and others became new friends. Nancy and Dave on S/V Fawkes, were travelling with their 17 year old daughter, Angel and son, Josh, who was 14. They knew our friends from Star Shadow whom we had met in Vero Beach. Tom, from Houston Texas, on S/V Star Cat, was travelling alone on his catamaran, came for drinks and stayed for a potluck supper. We said goodbye to Peter and Sue from Superior Graced who were travelling back north.

On Sunday we attended one of the two Baptist churches on the island. All the Bahamians dressed up for church in suits, hats, stockings and high-heeled shoes. Only two men came to church. Mostly it was women and children. I was glad that I had worn a dress and hat.
The service, although unlike any that I have attended, was very interesting and you could see that all had a very fervent belief. The singing was absolutely amazing!

Black Point has a large blow hole on the Exuma Sound of the island and we hiked up there to take a look. It took several tries to get a good picture.

That is the beauty of a digital camera. We went over to the Sound side where there was a very scenic beach with rolling surf but unlike the beaches on the town side, it was littered with debris. Some of it looked like it could have been washed up on the beach but some of it was just beer bottles and such just strewn over the sand. What a waste! Roman and I both thought it would make a beautiful tourist attraction if it was all cleaned up.


This is the Exuma Sound side.

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