13. Norfolk, Virginia, the start of the ICW

Norfolk Virginia is home to the largest naval base in the United States. The shipyards and the ships are immense and there seemed to be a myriad of different types. The influence of Homeland Security is very evident. No boat is allowed close to the ships. The borders are clearly marked and police boats patrol along the markings.




This is the U.S.Leyte Gulf Aegeas class destroyer. It is capable of launching missiles, torpedoes and harpoons. It was going out on manoeuvres with a multinational task force. The young man who told us about it said he had seen the Canadian flag on one of the ships taking part. We were getting gas at the time and it looked as though the ship was going to come right into the fuel dock. It is immense!

The Intercoastal Waterway (ICW) is marked off in statute miles and the Mile One marker is at Norfolk. When we got to Norfolk we anchored right past this marker at Hospital Point. The VHF Radio was abuzz with information about the large cruise ship which ran aground just south of Pungo Ferry about 28 miles south of Norfolk.


No boats were being allowed through initially but when we set out the next day, boats were going by in single file past the cruise ship. Knowing that the boat was taking on water, the cruise ship captain had deliberately run into the sandy shoal. Something had pierced the hull but we never did find out what was the real reason. There was speculation that it was a tree growing in the water, a steel rod, maybe a log??? All the passengers were taken off the cruise ship by the Coast Guard and taken to the Hilton in Alexander Bay from which they were to complete their tour by bus to historic Jamestown which was their last stop. We heard on the radio that apparently the passenger had paid $5000 for the cruise. I bet they’ll get another cruise free!



When we passed the cruise ship it was surrounded by coast guard and marine engineering boats. We could see water spurting out of the hull. The entire side was surrounded by a large plastic sheet to collect any oil that might come out but is seemed clear when we saw it.


The ICW has many bridges and only one lock at Grand Bridge, about 11 statute miles south of Mile One in Norfolk. We were used to the locks of the Erie Canal System and got ready with our ropes and our poles at the lock. As we were sitting waiting to go down, we noticed that the gates were opening. We didn’t even feel that we had gone down. The lock had gone down only 1½ ft. Here we are all ready with the pole, the ropes and the gloves- all for a foot and a half!